Went surfing today at Scripps Pier around 3:30pm and the surf was varied but decent enough for me to get out to the lineup, but big enough once I got there that I went a little bit beyond the lineup so I didn’t get crushed. The thing is that after a while the tide started to change and I didn’t notice that I was now caught in a rip tide until I was already somewhat exhausted. To help the situation the surf decided to die down around the same time, eliminating the easy way back in of catching a wave.
I don’t want this to sound too serious because it wasn’t, but it was the first time that I’ve actually been slightly worried while in the water surfing. Sure, there are stingrays to dodge and huge waves are intimidating but the worst that is likely to happen is that you get slammed and carried into shore and have to hold your breath for 20-30 seconds – not exactly scary stuff. Although the prospect of not being able to get back to shore under your own steam on your board is a bit unsettling. I’m a decent swimmer and most likely could have jumped off my board and swam in but it’s one of those things that you don’t really want to take a chance on when it’s December and darkness is closing in. Luckily a few of my friends were nearby and although tired themselves, managed to help me get back into the surf zone and into shore (thanks Ryan & Jordan – I owe you one).
Nothing like a little wakeup call to remind you to work on your paddling endurance.
